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Stones can be set in different metals. Gold, platinum and sterling silver are the most common.
However, some designers are using stainless steel, titanium and palladium. The color of the metal
is a personal choice, but keep in mind that it can enhance the color of the stone. For example, a
very white diamond will appear whiter against a white setting. A diamond with traces of yellow may
look more yellow in a white setting or may look whiter set against yellow gold.
Gold
Naturally yellow in color, gold will not tarnish. While it is strong, gold in its purest form is too
soft for most jewelry purposes and must be mixed — or alloyed — with other metals to increase its strength
and durability. The color of gold is affected by the concentration of alloys such as nickel or copper. A
high concentration of nickel or palladium creates white gold, while rose gold gets its color from a high
percentage of copper. White gold’s shiny white color occurs when it is plated with rhodium, a metal belonging
to the platinum family.
Gold’s purity is measured in karats, which are used to indicate the percentage of gold. Karat — spelled with the
letter “k” — always refers to the purity of metals. Note the distinction in the spelling of carat, which indicates
the weight of a diamond or other gemstone. Pure, 100 percent gold is 24 karat. It is more expensive, but not as durable,
as 18 karat — 75 percent gold — or 14 karat — 58.3 percent gold. When comparing gold jewelry, remember that the higher the
number of karats, the greater the gold value.
By law, anything less than 10 karats cannot be sold as gold in the United States. Always look for the karat mark or “k” on
the back of the jewelry to determine the gold content.
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18 karat gold — will be marked 18k or 750(the European designation meaning 75 percent gold)
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14 karat gold — will be marked 14k or 585
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10 karat gold — will be marked 10k or 417
Platinum
Louis XVI of France believed platinum was the only metal fit for a king. Sleek and elegant,
platinum’s natural white luster enhances a diamond’s radiance. Thirty times rarer than gold
and heavier, platinum is also the strongest of the precious metals used in jewelry. It is
tarnish free and hypoallergenic.
Platinum is more valuable than gold. Almost 160 tons of platinum are produced annually in
comparison to approximately 1,500 tons of gold. In fact, 10 tons of ore must be mined to
produce just 1 ounce of platinum.
Unlike gold, platinum is often 90 to 95 percent pure. It is frequently alloyed with gold,
nickel, iridium, palladium, rhodium, or ruthenium. Platinum jewelry that meets the established
standards is marked 900Pt, 950 Plat or Plat. In the United States, in order to be marked “Platinum” or
“Plat,” jewelry must contain at least 90 percent platinum.
Always look for the marking to ensure that the material is platinum and not white gold or another metal.
Palladium
Palladium is a metal from the platinum family.
Sterling Silver
Derived from the Latin for “white and shining,” silver entices with its sophisticated sheen. Like gold,
it is too soft in its purest form to be used to make jewelry. Copper is the most frequently used alloy
because it is very effective in adding durability to silver.
Sterling silver is a mixture of 92.5 percent pure silver and 7.5 percent copper. Silver is not designated
with a karat weight; sterling silver is considered 92.5 percent pure and is stamped with the mark 925.
Titanium
Titanium is a lustrous metal that resists corrosion.
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